Loss of firmness: what is really happening beneath the surface

There is a fairly precise moment when we start using the word “firmness”.

The facial contour looks a little less defined. The cheek does not bounce back quite as it used to. Makeup sits differently. And suddenly every cream seems to promise to “redensify” something.

But what is actually changing beneath the skin?

The answer is less simple than a jar labelled “collagen”. And that is exactly what makes it interesting.

Firmness is not only about collagen

Collagen matters enormously. In the dermis, it contributes to the skin’s mechanical strength.

But it is not alone.

Elastin contributes to the skin’s ability to return to its shape. Hyaluronic acid and other glycosaminoglycans contribute to the water-rich environment of the extracellular matrix. Beneath the skin, fat, muscle and bone structures also contribute to what we perceive as a “firm” face.

So no, if your face looks less firm, that does not automatically mean you are “lacking collagen”.

That would be convenient. But the face is a little more sophisticated than that.

The sun has been working on the case for a long time

We often talk about age as if it explains everything. But a substantial part of what we call skin ageing comes from accumulated sun exposure.

In the randomised trial by Hughes and colleagues, 903 adults were followed for 4.5 years. Participants using sunscreen every day showed 24% less measured skin ageing than those who used it at their own discretion.

That is a useful piece of data when you are choosing between buying a seventh serum and finally getting serious about SPF.

Around menopause, skin changes rhythm too

Skin has oestrogen receptors. When hormone levels change around menopause, this can translate into very concrete changes.

Dermatology reviews describe reductions in collagen, skin thickness, elasticity and hydration.

A recent meta-analysis of menopausal hormone therapy included 15 studies and 1,589 women. It found favourable effects on elasticity, skin thickness and collagen content.

This is obviously not a reason to take hormone therapy “for your skin”. Hormone therapy is a much broader medical decision, with indications and contraindications.

But these results show quite clearly that hormones really are part of the skin story.

Hydration can create bounce without rebuilding the whole structure

Better-hydrated skin often looks more supple, feels more comfortable and appears bouncier.

That is a real benefit. But two things need to be distinguished.

Improving water levels in the stratum corneum can quickly change the appearance of dehydration lines. It does not mean you have rebuilt all the collagen in the dermis overnight.

That is precisely why we like to think in layers of needs rather than looking for one product that does everything.

Retinoids have very strong evidence in photoageing

When it comes to topical actives, tretinoin is among the best-documented references.

A 2022 systematic review included seven randomised trials. The studies reported improvements in several clinical signs of photoageing, including wrinkles and irregular pigmentation.

The trade-off is familiar: irritation, redness, dryness and sometimes difficult tolerance.

So it is not the active to pile cheerfully on top of three exfoliants on a Sunday night.

Topical retinoids should not be used during pregnancy or by women planning a pregnancy. This is the recommendation of the European Medicines Agency.

What about oral collagen? The evidence is interesting, but nuanced

In 2023, a meta-analysis of 26 randomised trials and 1,721 participants found improvements in hydration and elasticity with hydrolysed collagen.

In 2025, another meta-analysis of 23 trials and 1,474 participants looked more closely at funding and methodological quality. Benefits seen in the overall analysis were no longer significant in some subgroups of studies that were not industry-funded or were judged to be of higher quality.

For us, the conclusion is not “collagen yes” or “collagen no”.

It is: which collagen, which source, what dose and which evidence actually correspond to the product you are taking?

That is exactly why we chose an eggshell-membrane matrix

In our Collagen formula, we chose 300 mg of Reggenerate™, a matrix made from eggshell membrane upcycled in Brittany.

This matrix naturally contains several components, including collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid and glycosaminoglycans.

We combine it with 60 mg of Quali®-C vitamin C. Vitamin C contributes to normal collagen formation for the normal function of skin.

This choice does not mean that eggshell membrane is “the same product” as hydrolysed marine or bovine collagen.

Quite the opposite: they are different materials. And they deserve to be compared as such.

If firmness is your concern, this is the order that makes most sense to us

And at Eclo?

We deliberately use several different formula architectures.

Collagen combines 300 mg of Reggenerate™ with 60 mg of Quali®-C vitamin C.

Régénère™ incorporates Reggenerate™ into a multi-active formula including SkinAx²™, CoQ10, magnesium bisglycinate and saffron.

Hyaluronic Acid 200 mg is a shorter formula providing 200 mg of hyaluronic acid via ExceptionHYAL® Star, with vitamin C.

Three different compositions. So three different ways to build a routine.

Firmness is not a battle against age. It is a question of structure, protection, hydration and context.